domingo, 19 de diciembre de 2010

"Power Inverter" 9a+ FA in Oliana

Foto Reinhard Fichtinger

The last day Chris sent "Power inverter" 9a+ FA, one of his really hard projects bolted in the espectacular wall in Oliana. Also Dani Andrada sent at the same time "Duele la realidad" 9a bolted by himself too.. it was fun watching them cheer eachother on while they climbed.. it was motivating for everybody in the cliff.. thanks guys and good job!! :-)


domingo, 12 de diciembre de 2010

"The Fanatic Search 2"

The Fanatic Search 2 "A girl thing"
A 90 minutes movie by Laurent Triay that tells in 7 Chapters, the stages which mark the life of fanatic climbers like Martina Cufar, Nina Caprez, Mariona Marti..etc among the best of the world. By choosing to follow and to film girls of any generations, from Brooke Raboutou 9 years, to 50-year-old Lynn Hill, this documentary allows to appreciate how evolves with years, the state of mind which leads these passionate climbers. With beautiful achievements, the movie presents these climbers to the best of their talent. A hymn dedicated to the feminine climbing.
Thanks Laurent! :-)

domingo, 5 de diciembre de 2010

T1-Full Equip 8c in Oliana!!

A story of love and hate .. hehe… This is how I have decided to define my experience with "Full Equip" 8c, an incredible route in Oliana, equipped by Victor Fernandez.

I liked this line from the first time I tried it, the style of climbing, the kind of holds, and that I was able to work out all the moves quite quicky.

The worst part of it has undoutebly been wear and tear on finger skin: when I first tried it the holds felt great… until I split my finger tip on one of the lower moves, and from then on I had to tape my finger for every attempt — not the best thing for trying hard routes! Instead of crimping the small, sharp holds I tried my best to open-hand them as much as possible, and climbing in this way I finally managed to send it last Thursday!

All in all I’m really happy: I’ve done both my recent projects — Aitzol (8c) at Margalef and now Full Equip at Oliana. Now I just need to stay motivated for the future.. have fun!!