daila ojeda

just hanging out...

2012-01-25T16:23:00.000-08:00

After some days in the canary paradise with the family and friends from there we come back home to try to finish what I started.. but no luck..
My endless story with "Gran Blau", my last project in Oliana, has been a little bit frustrating.. I had never been so close and so far of the chain in the same time!!.. but you know, this new experience is teaching me something good for sure ;-)
I hope so!! hehe... and If I look at the positive side I keep having a really nice project almost in my pocket..! ;-) that sounds very good..
Putting aside Oliana and the projects (just for one week!) we have come to visit the winter Outdoor tradeshow in Salt lake City (Utah) with our good friend Finuco from Trangoworld and we have had the pleasure to see friends that we don't see very often.. the people from Evolv, Sanuk, Prana, Entreprises, Sterling ropes, Petzl, etc.. and many others :-) It was fun..

After the OR event in Salt Lake we have been in Santa Cruz to see family and friends and we met "the little" Emilio Puvhel Garcia!! and I say little because he was born just one month ago and he is really cute :-) Congrats Nancy and Marcus!

And after this short visit in Santa Cruz we'll go to Los Angeles to work with the Evolv people.. they are making new amazing shoes!!

what a beautiful family :-)

All the best for 2012!!

2011-12-27T10:35:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas and Happy 2012 for everybody!!

We are going to Gran Canaria to enjoy the first day of the new year with my family!! :-) I´m psyched to see my friends from there, climb a little bit, go swimming in the ocean!
I love Canarias..!! There are good people, beautiful landscapes, comfortable weather (now 25º hehe..), nice beaches and family!! So perfect :-) Let´s go to the island!!

Here some really nice photos from Gran Canaria of Maria Torres.

Joe Kinder y Sterling Rope!!

2011-12-05T12:42:00.001-08:00

Joey Kinder has been on the Sterling Rope team for over ten years! In that time we have featured him in several ads, released a signature t-shirt with his personally designed twist on our familiar yellow and black logo, and now featured him in this Sterling Rope team video.
In this episode Joey steps in front of the lens (props to Collette) and reflects on being “on the road again”. While in Nice, Southern France, he talks about checking out new routes, testing out new areas, sometimes sending, sometimes ‘sucking’, but always psyched on trying! His rope of choice while on a three month trip, the Velocity 9.8mm.
Joe and his girlfriend Collette live ‘the climbing life’! Follow along in this video series filmed and edited by Joey Kinder while he travels the globe connecting with some of the best climbers in the world who, like him, have all chosen Sterling Rope.
Look for future Sterling Rope team videos from Joe Kinder in 2012 and beyond.

For more on Joe read his team bio - sterlingrope.com/team/67/367
To follow his blog check out - joekindkid.com

Climbing party ¨Desplomat 2011¨ en St.Linya!!

2011-11-21T04:25:00.001-08:00

Back home from the Petzl Roctrip in China!

2011-11-10T02:01:00.000-08:00

We are back in home!!

It was a really long trip even though it was just ten days in China.. It has been a new experience for me. I was in China one time before (Yangshuo) but it was totally different experience.. Getu Valley is a humble and chill small town very different to the tourists streets in Yangshuo.. the time goes slowly there.. and specially without coffee.. The food is very good, spicy and always with a healthy ginger touch.. the worst part it was the breakfast noodles... and the persistent humidity!! (you can imagine my hair! hehe..) But we forget the comfort that we are used to in our homes and we enjoyed the fun time with our friends who traveled to Getu Valley for sharing the Petzl Roctrip!!

There were people from many different places: New Zeland, Australia, Spain, Argentina, USA, Iran, France, Turkey... There is a lot of climbing potential.. It´s a climbing paradise! I hope all the work from the bolters and the Petzl organizers bear fruits in the future.. they deserve it! Thanks Erwan for this new experience! :-)

Congrats to Dani who sent ¨Corazon de ensueño¨ his amazing project in the Big Arch! It was really nice to watch him climbing down below.. he looked mini in this huge cave..

Really nice stories and amazing photos in our friends blogs Colette, Andrew Bisharat, Joe Kinder...! from there you will find more friend's blogs and you will enjoy many different stories and beautiful photos of the Petzl Roctrip!

Sterling rope and Enzo Oddo!

2011-11-09T02:02:00.000-08:00

Enzo Oddo is one of the young and very talented climbers from Southern France. At only 16 years old he is consistently climbing 9a and 9a+ routes. Enzo is leading the way for the new generation with his fearless efforts on some of the hardest projects like Jungle Boogie in Ceuse, France.

Enzo devoted himself to this project for weeks with no avail, which is just part of the game when it comes to such high end climbing. He knows that we fail a lot and we only succeed sometimes, but that is what makes our efforts so satisfying.

Watch as Enzo pushes himself and his Fusion Nano 9.2 on the still un-climbed project called Jungle Boogie.

Once again Joey Kinder has done an amazing job behind the lens…

2011-10-19T03:46:00.000-07:00

Petzl RocTrip 2011 : Gétû Valley, China

The Petzl RocTrip 2011 will take place in the Getu valley located in the heart of China from October 26 – 30, 2011. Team Petzl’s climbers have completely equipped this totally new site for the event. The goal of the RocTrip is to bring professional and amateur climbers together in a truly exceptional place.

At the Petzl RocTrip China 2011, participants will be offered no fewer than 250 climbing pitches spread across 15 sectors in the valley. On the menu: a cocktail of extreme routes (up to 9a for the best climbers) accompanied by loads of moderate routes for everyone all served up on delicious limestone walls. The Chuanschang arch comes into its own in the autumn when the rays of the rising sun shine across the river.

Team Petzl athletes

Daila Ojeda, Daniel Andrada, Steve Mcclure, Stéphanie Bodet, Arnaud Petit, Gerome Pouvreau, Loic Gaidioz, Charlotte Duriff, Philippe Ribière, Michaël Fuselier, Martina Cufar, Nathalija Gros, Nina Caprez, Mélissa Leneve, Alizée Dufraisse, Anthony Lamiche, Daniel Dulac, Liv Sansoz, Lynn Hill, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Said Belhaj, Jorg Verhoven, Yann Gesquier, Gerhard Horager, Florence Pinet, Vaibhav Metha, Enzo Oddo.

Sterling rope!!

2011-10-02T13:50:00.000-07:00

Sterling rope video by Joe Kinder and Colette Mclnerney!!
thanks guys! looks great! :-)

Women of climbing 2011

2011-09-10T01:37:00.000-07:00

The new calender ¨Women of climbing 2011¨ is ready! Here a really nice photo from Bernardo Gimenez of me climbing in Mind Control, my project in Oliana.

Thanks Bernardo! ;-)

Sterling rope video shot

2011-08-08T11:32:00.000-07:00

Great new video shot by Sterling Rope athlete Joe Kinder featuring Chris Sharma. This is the first in a series of six videos shot on location in Spain, France, and Italy, each of which focus on one of our sponsored athletes. Future videos will feature Daila Ojeda, Enzo Oddo, Joe Kinder, Anna and Philippe Gatta, Anna Gonzalez and Matteo Pineo. The concept behind the videos is to show why ropes play an important role in the daily lives of climbers and the reasons why they choose Sterling Rope.

Climbing festival Les Avellanes-St.Liña 2011

2011-07-29T05:21:00.000-07:00

Rock and Ice!!

2011-07-12T04:20:00.000-07:00

Photos keith Ladzinski

Last spring we had a really nice visit in Cataluña from some very fanatic yanquis- friends! Andrew Bisharat, Rock and Ice editor, and the great photographer Keith Ladzinski tell us this funny story in the latest Rock and Ice issue.

The cover is badass dudes! thanks! :-)

Catalog 2012-EVOLV

2011-07-08T07:14:00.000-07:00

Catalunya!!

2011-06-24T12:39:00.000-07:00

I am in home after one month in the road!!

First I traveled to Canary Island where I spent a very good days with my friends and my family. I love this place. The weather is very soft all year, there are good beachs, good surfing, good climbing, good peole, good food :-) It´s my favorite island in the world!! hehe.. And after Gran Canaria I went to US (you know this part) :-) It was a fun travel! We´ll comeback there very soon..

Here the house is getting very beautiful. The workers are doing a really good job. It´s changing everyday: new roof, new porch.. it´s so nice.. I´m so happy! hehe :-) venga!

Come back home-Santa Cruz

2011-06-12T21:05:00.000-07:00

nice photos of Boone Speed

After some nice days in the small city of Bend (Oregon), near the mitic climbing place Smith Rock, we have come back to our home in California, Santa Cruz.

It was really good to know that place, the landscape is amazing and the climbing style is very particular there.. it's something like Siurana style but a little more extrem! hehe.. the warm up was a fight! uff.. but it was really nice to try some routes there.

And it was really psyched to see the monkey face where is the legendary route "Just do it", first 8c+ in USA redpointed by JB Tribout in 1992. It's a such a beautiful route.. if this route was in Oliana I would be psyched to try it a muerte!! :-)

venga bichos!!

USA- Smith Rock!!

2011-06-08T15:50:00.001-07:00

Our beautiful house in Oregon! :-)

Chris and Boone Speed working in the new Entre Prises hangboard

Smith Rocks! incredible place..

While our good friends Alvaro, Nane and Xerach are working on the roof of our house we have come to the US for some weeks. After some days in Santa Cruz we are in the state of Oregon to visit the company Entre Prises (Chris's sponsor) and of course we are taking advantage of it to do some climbing in the aesthetic walls of Smith Rocks. This place is really beautiful and the people are very friendly.. it's a perfect place to have a project :-)

After this week we are going to see our friends from Evolv and Sanuk.

a muerte!!

The Scene (trailer) - Chuck Fryberger films

2011-05-11T07:06:00.000-07:00

THE SCENE
From the director of PURE and CORE, get ready to infiltrate four of the biggest scenes in the world of climbing.

Moab, Utah: a mellow desert town surrounded by massive sandstone towers, where climbers test the limits of danger while still maintaining a strict traditional ethic. Boulder, Colorado: the undisputed social hub of US climbing, with sponsored athletes of every discipline living in a city packed-full of talent, competition, and progressive ideas. Innsbruck, Austria: with possibly the highest concentration of talent in the world, the competition climbers here fight not only for the tops of podiums, but also corporate sponsorships and mainstream success. Catalunya, Spain: with near-limitless potential, Northern Spain has claimed the title of sport climbing capital of the world, and is now home to climbing's largest population of elite sport climbers.

Filmed in stunning 4K Ultra High Definition, get ready for a fast-paced ride through the centers of the climbing universe.

9a+ and 9b for Chris in the same day!

2011-05-05T14:49:00.000-07:00

photo Keith Ladzinski

Chris sends in the same day "Chaxi" 9a+ (the second part of "Chaxiraxi" 9b that Adam Ondra climbed recently) and "Fight or Flight" 9b in Oliana.

After warming up in his last project bolted in Oliana (nice combination between "Papichulo" and "Pachamama") Chris tried "Chaxiraxi" 9b from the direct start and he fell in the last move of the boulder problem!! ayayai.. it was a really good climbing! After that, he is psyched to trie his old proyect "Fight or flight" 9b and zaaass!! he sent it!! ole!

And to finish the day he gave a burn on "Chaxi" 9a+ (just to remember this part of the route) and yes sir! he put it in his pocket! :-) Yes, we can!! hehe.. good job peque!

Alpsolut Film

2011-04-28T06:50:00.000-07:00

Jakob Shubert en Papichulo 9a+!

nice pics of ¨Paper mullat¨

Here nice photos from the new climbing film that the guys of the Alpsolut productions are making. We will see really good footages with fanatics climbers from different parts of Europe.

That sounds very good, I'm psyched to watch that! :-)

Chris sends First round first minuto!! yeeaaahhh!!

2011-04-19T15:49:00.000-07:00

nice photo from Pete O'donovan

The combat lasted more than one round and much more than one minute but finally Chris won the battle!! nice job Chris, you deserve it!! Looks like this week we'll celebrate more than just your birthday!! hehehe...

"Paper Mullat" 8b+/c in Oliana!! :-)

2011-03-12T09:41:00.000-08:00

We are back in Oliana climbing a muerte..

Nice routes, many motivated people and a lot of energy for sending.. that sounds good no?

My first project of 2011 is finished, "Paper Mullat" 8b+/c is now old history hehe.. I'm so psyched!

And one more time the camera gave me good luck :-) this time Chuck Fryberger was filming me for his new video while I was sending it.. He is doing a really nice work traveling around the world filming the most fanatics climbing places.

"The scene" looks good :-)

New GRIGRI 2 from PETZL

2011-01-25T02:32:00.000-08:00

If you want to know something more click here:

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/products-news-0/2011/01/24/grigri-2-new-petzl-belay-device-assisted-braking

Covers!

2011-01-24T02:32:00.001-08:00

The magazines BLOK from Holland and CLIMB from England have choosen for their december and january covers these nice pictures from Maria Torres and Pete O'donovan.

¨Catxasa¨ 9a+ F.A for Chris in Santa Liña

2011-01-13T12:34:00.001-08:00

Foto: Pete O´donovan

¨Catxasa¨ 9a+ F.A in Santa Liña is the first redpoint of 2011 for Chris. This route was bolted by Dani Andrada and other strong climbers like Adam Ondra o Tomas Mrazec have worked on the route..

Looks like the christmas holidays in Canary Island was really nice for Chris! hehe :-)

"Power Inverter" 9a+ FA in Oliana

2010-12-19T15:22:00.001-08:00

Foto Reinhard Fichtinger

The last day Chris sent "Power inverter" 9a+ FA, one of his really hard projects bolted in the espectacular wall in Oliana. Also Dani Andrada sent at the same time "Duele la realidad" 9a bolted by himself too.. it was fun watching them cheer eachother on while they climbed.. it was motivating for everybody in the cliff.. thanks guys and good job!! :-)

photos reinhard-fichtinger.com

"The Fanatic Search 2"

2010-12-12T10:52:00.000-08:00

The Fanatic Search 2 "A girl thing"

A 90 minutes movie by Laurent Triay that tells in 7 Chapters, the stages which mark the life of fanatic climbers like Martina Cufar, Nina Caprez, Mariona Marti..etc among the best of the world. By choosing to follow and to film girls of any generations, from Brooke Raboutou 9 years, to 50-year-old Lynn Hill, this documentary allows to appreciate how evolves with years, the state of mind which leads these passionate climbers. With beautiful achievements, the movie presents these climbers to the best of their talent. A hymn dedicated to the feminine climbing.

WORK LESS CLIMB MORE films.

Thanks Laurent! :-)

T1-Full Equip 8c in Oliana!!

2010-12-05T02:16:00.000-08:00

A story of love and hate .. hehe… This is how I have decided to define my experience with "Full Equip" 8c, an incredible route in Oliana, equipped by Victor Fernandez.

I liked this line from the first time I tried it, the style of climbing, the kind of holds, and that I was able to work out all the moves quite quicky.

The worst part of it has undoutebly been wear and tear on finger skin: when I first tried it the holds felt great… until I split my finger tip on one of the lower moves, and from then on I had to tape my finger for every attempt — not the best thing for trying hard routes! Instead of crimping the small, sharp holds I tried my best to open-hand them as much as possible, and climbing in this way I finally managed to send it last Thursday!

All in all I’m really happy: I’ve done both my recent projects — Aitzol (8c) at Margalef and now Full Equip at Oliana. Now I just need to stay motivated for the future.. have fun!!

Temps d´aventura tv3 with Chris Sharma

2010-11-26T09:21:00.000-08:00

Some weeks ago we were invited to visit the huge Barcelona football stadium ¨Camp Nou¨ with the guys from the Cataluña TV tv3 because they were making a very nice shoot with Chris about climbing for the tv program Temps d'aventura... Why we went to this place for to film a climbing program?! you have to watch this film and you will find the answer! :-) (Saludos a los vampiros! jeje.. we miss you guys!)

Aitzol 8c in Margalef!!

2010-10-22T13:45:00.000-07:00

The last week I sent "Aitzol" my second 8c in Margalef!! yupiiii... I'm so psyched!!

Venga! :-)

Cover in the ESCALAR magazine

2010-09-27T07:09:00.000-07:00

Beautiful photo of the french Sam Bie in the cover of the last magazine Escalar! Nice! ;-)

And we want to go back to our climbing routine in Spain and to try our new projects there.. but for the moment we are in New Paltz, near the big city of New York, where the last night Chris made slideshow in the climbing shop Rock and Snow, that was cool.. and of course, we are visiting the Lowell family: Kate, Grey, Cedar and Brett.. the landscape are really beautiful here, wood houses and colorful forests...

From Margalef to US

2010-09-18T13:30:00.000-07:00

Photo: Victor Montilla

Now we can say ¨hasta la proxima¨ to the summertime and we be psyched for the autumn season, the best one for climbing!

And the autumn arrived and we are leaving to US for 12 days.. First we are going to ¨Noreaster¨ in Rumney for some days. then we´ll go to New York where Chris will do a slideshow and after we will be in Boulder, Colorado.

It´s not a long trip and for sure we wont forget our new proyects in Margalef.. uff so hard!

Also, in the last days we have climbed other routes here. I was happy after climb ¨Hard Crit¨ 8a+ really fanatic route in Margalef. Andrada sent one spectacular 50 meter route ¨Politicamente Corruptos¨ 8c+/9a that he bolted the last weeks and Chris did the same with¨Coma Sanpere¨ 8c+ bolted by Dani too.

Now, we have to wait for the really good conditions and climbing a muerte of course! ;-)

8b en Tres Ponts!

2010-09-04T03:53:00.000-07:00

Nice photos of Pete O'donovan

September is here! ...that means autumn is finally near and that sound really good.

We'll be able to climb in our favorite places very soon like St. linya, Margalef, Oliana..

In the moment we are climbing in another espectacular spot called Tres Ponts and this week I was able to climb an incredible route there, "Aonvolsna" 8b. Nice!

Now we 're talking :-) a muerte!

Norway...

2010-09-03T04:26:00.000-07:00

Here some photos from Norway...

Last weekend we participated in Rock Master in Norway and this event wasn't like I expected. It was presented like a climbing meeting and finally it was a real competition.. with insolation zone, judges and we had to climb new granite routes that were totally dirty onsight! it was crazy because almost everybody broke some holds on the routes.. well, it was really fun with my friends from Spain... really really fun.. thanks dudes! ;-)

Venga! Now I want to climb a muerte in our nice rock in Spain! hehe

Rock Master in Norway

2010-08-26T11:22:00.000-07:00

The next weekend we are going to Norway for climbing in the second Norweigian Rock Master. This event will be near the small town of Risor in southern Norway and it will organized by his principal bolter Borre Bergshaven and the Climbing Club Grimstad and Arenal (GAKK).

Also many friends like Andrea Cartas, Carlos Padilla, Mrazek, Nina Caprez, Gorka Karapeto, Ekaitz Maiz, Martina Cufar, etc.. are coming to this event too.

For sure it will be a really fun event.. and nicer weather than Spain!!

France sweet France

2010-08-20T12:42:00.000-07:00

Manu Flores a muerte like always!! Photos: Bernardo Gimenez

Annita ready for climbing!

Oliver from Venezuela

With my baby Chaxiraxi. Nice photo of Bernardo Gimenez

After one month just resting and no climbing the motivation is coming back.

Usually for me the summer is time for swimming at the beach not for climbing but the last week I could see that climbing it´s possible too in summer!

We have been climbing for a week on the beautiful, alpine walls near Briançon, France.

It was fun climbing with my friends Anna and Oliver, from Venezuela and of course, with our fanatics friends from Argentine: Los Manu, Oracio, Geo and the really nice photographer Bernardo Gimenez.

Now we have to keep motivated in Spain a muerte because the summer is going and the good weather is coming soon! venga!

I'm not on Facebook

2010-06-29T15:21:00.000-07:00

Hello everybody!

It's seems like somebody is using my name in Facebook

So if Daila Ojeda wants to be your friend it's not really me!

and Chris Sharma neither!

Venga! have fun! ;-)

"Era Bella" 9a for Chris!!

2010-05-19T04:32:00.000-07:00

Photos: Boone Speed

The last week Chris did the first ascent of his last route bolted, ¨Era Bella¨9a in Margalef.

also he did the route when he was warming up! ;-)

yes, warming up is important!! hehe

Xiketeta 8b!!

2010-05-10T10:47:00.000-07:00

Photos Brett Lowell :-)

Motivation is coming back!

After almost one month without climbing I´m super psyched again!

The last weeks we have climbed in Margalef a lot, good weather, good routes and excellent people.. that is perfect!

We are very motivated now and we have trying very nice projects. I´m very happy because I have climbed some nice routes the last days like ¨La Perdonavidas¨ 8a on my second try and ¨Xiketeta¨ really technical and resistant 8b…

Here we go! motivation a muerte always! ...hehehe…

US trip

2010-04-18T21:24:00.000-07:00

Going back home! Wherever no… Spain! :-)

I like traveling. I like to know new places and come back to some places that I know. I like to visit people that I haven´t seen for a long time… practicing my sad english (this time I have practiced nothing!) and enjoy watching the really huge and beautiful landscapes that this country has...that is great. But really one of my favorite partsof travelling is coming back home... home sweet home! ;-)

We have enjoyed climbing some days in Santa Cruz, Bishop and Owens River, in the last one I felt like in home (Canary Island) with its unique volcanic rock… and more because we climbed with our really tan friend Lisa and that looks like I was climbing with my home´s friends Mapi or Angy in some place in Canarias.. that was nice and a little bit nostalgic.. But definitely I want to go back to this place (Owens Rivers). It´s really nice ;-) Not to mention that Chris sent one of his projects in Bishop ¨Spectre¨ 8B and also the same day he sent ¨Harun sea of stories¨ 8A+.. and "for training" like he says, he repeated "Mandala"... good no? hehe

And well, we had couple very sweet days with the Puvel´s family (Andy, Lisa, Granit, Casius and Marcus). Before we came back to home in Santa Cruz, first we visited Los Angeles (oh yeahhhh) where two of our sponsors are (SANUK and EVOLV ) that means that we will back to Spain with the suitcase full!! ;-) I like that! hehe

Now my trip is finished and I´m going to Spain if the ash from Iceland lets me go!

ayayai…I am psyched to see Chaxi... we´ll see…

Venga a muerte!!

First respect first minute!!

2010-03-31T01:03:00.000-07:00

When I started climbing 16 years ago, red tagging was super common and way over done. People would bolt entire crags and not even be trying the routes and red tag them all simultaneously. Some would even just put the first bolt and then claim it as theirs. No doubt that this was a negative thing in climbing. The response to this when I was in my teens was the other extreme, (that the rock belongs to everyone and there are no closed projects). Especially when the equipper wasn't even seriously trying the route. Its clear that you cant stop the progression and project hoarding shouldn't be allowed. So in between these two extremes does there exist some middle gowned? I have to say that my first experiences sportclimbing when I was a kid lacked understanding as Id never bolted my own lines. Also I was pretty much exclusively bouldering. In bouldering the first ascent process although requires vision, the work to open the line is nothing compared to bolting making it much more difficult to say that "I opened this boulder" its much more up for grabs in this way. In Sportclimbing the person who has the vision and has put in all of the work perhaps should have some voice, or at least be consulted to whether or not they are fine with others trying it.

People like to say often "The first ascent is not important. I Just want to climb this amazing route." Honestly these kind of statements are pretty naive I think. From my perspective the process of discovering a line, all the work put into it to bolt it clean it etc, and finally climb it , is what climbing is all about. And the first ascent is very different. It only can happen once. Lets take for example, I have no experience climbing on El Cap. I don't think it would be very appropriate that all of the sudden I decide Im going to go and try to free Mescalito before Tommy (Im not saying in anyway that Id be able to, but just for an example). But it would be a little like: he did all the work to get it ready, has shared with the world his vision of the next level in trad, so now I come and want to snag it and the glory from him. I think he and others might be like "Dude go find your own project" And in my opinion rightly so. He has spent a lot of time, energy and emotion preparing himself for this route. I don't believe there is anyone more capable than Tommy, but even if there were, I think it would be kinda bad style. People love to do first ascents but don't want to do any of the leg work.

Catalunya has maybe the most limestone Ive ever seen in one place. It also has the highest concentration of hard routes in the world. There are over 10 routes of 9a+ and many many ,more of 9a. Its not like there are no other lines and Im hoarding the last great project. Around basically every corner there are new futuristic lines to be bolted. I spend just as much time bolting as I do climbing . Actually I have about 15 projects in Catalunya in the range of 9a to 9b+ or harder that are all open projects and all 5 stars. So for someone who has never been to the area, there is a lot to do. For me personally I don't want to hoard my projects , but if there is one in particular that that is more important to me, that Ive been single mindedly focusing on for a year and am super close to doing , then I think its understandable for people respect my efforts.

So until recently Id never met or spent anytime with Nalle Hukkataival. He's obviously a really amazing climber and I really respect the the style of boulder problems that he's been putting up (big impressive beautiful hard lines). I can understand his draw to a route like FRFM. I guess what was surprising was that he didn't ask my opinion or permission (not that he needs to, its not illegal or anything we're just talking about climbing etiquette). I found out his aim that he came to spain specifically try first round by reading his blog. Discussing it with Dani (we were like : "thats strange; he's never been to spain, where there are so many hard routes to try and he's planning to go directly to my project") . Catalunya has a lot of good climbers and in general the locals are pretty respectful about these things, at least to ask is a good policy. I feel that its better to express yourself if you feel like if you don't your going to be frustrated., So I told Nalle that Id appreciate if he gave me some more time to try to get it done before he started working on it. Obviously he didn't have to respect my wishes. Its not like I have any power to enforce any sort of climbing laws and not allow someone to try it, I just expressed my feelings. He could have disregarded that and tried it but it seemed that he respected that and gave me some more time and I was very appreciative of that. I pointed him in the direction of several other futuristic projects that I bolted that I thought he would like and it seemed like it was all good.

Maybe there is some confusion as to whether the route was originally an open project and then changed to a closed one. I spent some time working on it with my good friends Dani Andrada and Dave Graham. These are guys that Ive known for a very long time and we've shared many experiences climbing together so it was a natural thing that we would share some experiences on this route. Its very different from inviting all the best climbers in the world to come and climb it, turning it into a contest to see who does it first. For me I enjoy the process of equipping my own lines because it isn't a competition, its your own personal quest on your own terms, using your own personal vision and not following somebody else.

If Id not bolted First Round it would more than likely still be a random rock face unequipped, not existing in the way it is today. I believe this effort deserves the right to try for a while (within reason) to do the first ascent . There is no doubt that you cant have a project to yourself indefinitely and I may or may not have arrived at the point where first round needs to be opened. But three months ago when I was falling at the last move it still wasn't that time in my opinion. I was so close to do the route which for me is a really important line in my personal progression and I didn't want to add to the pressure that I was already feeling personally with even more external pressure.

Anyway life and climbing are learning processes. We make mistakes and learn from them. Thats how we improve our climbing and our personal character. Perhaps people at times have put me up on a pedestal thinking that Im perfect. Well Im actually just a very normal person, going through life and learning the hard way as normal people do. I have many flaws. I struggle with my projects in climbing and my projects in life. Im no enlightened being and like most of us still have to deal with ego. I guess in that way life is in the struggle and there is always something new to learn and another perspective to understand. So as with climbing we are all evolving, and our various experiences teach us valuable lessons everyday. I don't claim any authority on this subject we are discussing, Im just expressing my personal opinion, which may or may not be the best opinion. If Im in the wrong with this , I offer my sincere apologies.

I wish everyone all the best in their climbing and their other pursuits in life

--chris

¨Fish eye¨first 8c in Oliana!!

2010-02-27T03:10:00.000-08:00

After two months just climbing in Oliana I have climbed my project ¨Fish eye¨8c finally! I´m so happy.. my first 8c! It´s a present from Chris because he bolted this amazing route one year before.. nice dude!

I´m very satisfied because when I tried it first time I thought ¨I couldn´t do this route in my life, too long (50 mtrs!), very physical and with a surprise in the slab final..uff I don´t know man..¨ but well, trying and trying I loved the route and just I was psyched to progress and that was fun! thanks to Chris and my friends of course! :-)

Yesterday it was a special day. When I left my house I thought ¨the las year one day like today (feb 26) I did China Crisis 8b+ in Oliana, maybe I´m lucky this day again.. I don´t know, we´ll see..here¨ and we arrived to Oliana the weather was really perfect, sun and fresh wind but I waited for the fresh shade and venga! climbing a muerte! and it´s was very stressful! oh my god! I have fallen two times before in the slab! And It was very nice when I arrived to the slab and Laurent Triay who was filming the send for WORK LESS CLIMB MORE films (because he is making a new fanatic climbing film) helped me to climb easy and chill… and of course thanks to Chris and the team american-finland (Dave, Jonh, Chad and Nalle) because they were really psyched and shouting encouragement the whole time. Nice dudes!

And now more projects, climbing on sight and I want to stay in shape for climbing a muerte the next month in USA… let´s climb!

Venga!

URGENT! my e-mail address has been stolen!

2010-02-17T02:33:00.000-08:00

hello everybody!

Please don't send me e-mails to my address: dailaojeda@yahoo.es bescause somebody has stolen my address account.

And if you received some strange mail from this account it's not me!! for sure!!

Joder! Venga!

Good weather = motivation!

2010-01-25T06:28:00.000-08:00

The good weather has arrived and the same time the motivation is here too!

Today maybe it's not the best time for to say that because it's raining right now but the last week and the next few days the sun will shine and it's for that we live here because you can climb with perfect weather on all the incredible walls for the majority of the year.

And for to get psyched we were going to one of our favorite place for climbing, Oliana. This place is wonderful and the lines are five stars of course! and now also Oliana has a new line of 50 meters bolted by Chris the last week... the name is Chaxiraxi and it can be one of the hardest route in the sector... 9b?? We will see that the machine says.. If it's like this Chris has bolted four 9b routes in Catalunya: "Golpe de Estado" 9b in Siurana, "Neanderthal" 9b in Santa Linya, "First round First minute" 9b proyect in Margalef and "Chaxiraxi" 9b proyect in Oliana. And with this line Chris has bolted in Oliana 10 routes. Looks like Chris doesn't want just to send the hard routes, he want to create it too. Good job peque!

And since my project "Digital System" in Santa Linya is wet I already have new hard projects in Oliana (like Fish eye in the Maria Torre´s photo).

And the last week we have had the visit like every winter of our fanatics friends from Germany Marcus Bock and Manu (our particular cookers hehe). They arrived motivated for climbing in Margalef but all routes were wet there and then they went to Oliana and Santa Linya with us and they could find some dry routes with 15 just meters or less :-)

And Congratulation for Iker Pou for his recently rotpunk "Demencia Senil" 9a+. Nice job dude!

and what now?

2010-01-12T10:32:00.000-08:00

What happen with the weather now?

The weather is getting crazy in Spain right now. It is raining and snowing for everywhere...

Climbing with cold weather is really hard and climbing with wet rock is a piece of shit.. but climbing with temperatures below zero and totally wet rock at the same time that is the worst of the worst! That means that we have to find the climbing gym keys wherever it is and to start training a little bit because our fitness is going to holidays! uff that sounds hard! It's just motivation!! venga! a muerte! hehe

see you! :-)

Merry Christmas from Canary Island!

2009-12-25T10:03:00.000-08:00

Merry Christmas and Happy new year 2010!!

Good energy and many redpoints for everybody!

Climbing a muerte always! :-)

Neanderthal 9b for Chris in Santa Linya!!

2009-12-18T14:45:00.000-08:00

Today it was a beautiful sunny day of winter in one of our favorite crag in Catalunya, Santa Linya. It's was really cold too and that means perfect conditions for climbing!

And some days before Chris fell in the last move in his project in Santa Linya and after one rest day he arrived to the anchor to the hardest route in the cave Neanderthal 9b

He climbed really solid and very psyched with everybody cheering down below venga bicho!! nice Chris!

the good thing is Brett Lowell captured everything on tape and you be able to see some nice footage very soon on bigupproductions.com (good job guys!)

And it's was crazy because he was waiting for his other project in Margalef to dry and he went to the cave just for fun and belay me… then he has to go to Margalef and finish his work with First round first minute 9b?? before 2010… that sound really good man!

we'll see next few days!

Winter is here!!

2009-12-17T02:18:00.000-08:00

David Gambus in Santa Leña 8c/+

Psyched with Digital System 8c

With my baby Chaxiraxi. Photos Brett Lowell

After some hot months the winter is here finally!

The weather is really cold now and at our house it's snowing early in the morning something we don't see very often here.. that's beautiful... but it's hard to be motivated, I'm from Canary Island! hehe... Regardless of the cold we are psyched in The Santa Linya Cave where we share a good fire with other people from everywhere (Japan, Argentina, England, USA...) it's good thing for practicing my poor english! ay mi madre!

Also I am really motivated with my project (Digital System 8c) and each try I feel better doing the moves.. I hope it won't rain the next weeks.

And the next week I'm going to Canary some days for Christmas I'm psyched to see the family, friends and to be a little in the beach but I'll comeback very soon because this time I don't want to lose the good feeling with the route..

We'll see what happen! :-)

Petzl in Siurana y new redpoints!!

2009-11-05T09:38:00.001-08:00

The last week was the PETZL team meeting in Siurana! It was very fun climbing the really nice routes of Siurana and Margalef with people from everywhere... The next year this event should repeat! It was very interested...

Now we are so motivated and we are climbing a lot in our favorite cave Sta linya! that is great! oh my god! Chris doesn't loose his time and hi sent the proyect "Sistema Analogico" hard 9a, nice dude! Now that the house is almost finished and warm for the winter I am very focused on climbing and the last day I sent Deja vu 7c+ onsight! my first anchor after some months! nice.. I'm very happy and motivated a muerte! hehehe

Yo Basecamp! Bishop

2009-07-28T16:00:00.000-07:00

And now, after tradeshow, we are in Bishop enjoying of one week with the Yo! Basecamp climbing in Happy boulders and Buttermilk with some kids from some place of US, Kansas, San Diego, Sta. Cruz, Virginia, New York... that's nice! they are so motivated... but where are the girls?! C'mon... yesterday they climbed in the night, that was great! very nice.. Today they will see the Chris Sharma's slideshow... It will be fun ;-)

Outdoor Fredrischafen and Salt Lake City

2009-07-23T16:55:00.000-07:00

After some time of rest I wanted to update the blog!

The last days we have been in the Outdoor tradeshow in Fredrischafen (Germany) and It was nice to be in the booths of Desnivel with Dario Rodriguez, EVOLV and the really nice new models of climbing shoes, Chillaz (the new clothes looks beautifull!) and Petzl, free beer!! hehe and It was very fun because also many other friends were there like Jordi Salas "Pelon" and Jordi who are distributing Evolv in Spain now! nice that is great! Finuco with Trangoworld and his Michael Jackson dance moves, the people of FIXE and Top30... and we had a really nice saturday party with that spanish team.. It was good!

And now we are in the Salt Lake City tradeshow in Utah... I have jet lag a muerte but I'm trying my poor english and I think It's getting better! Well I don't really know ;-)

There are more climbers participating in this event, Lisa Rands, Tiffany Hensley, Daniel Wood, Paul Robinson, Jacinda Hunter, Chris Sharma, Joe Kinder, Collete Mclnerney and many other. Also Josh Lowell from Big Up Producctions are here too and the last night we watched some clips of the new climbing film "Progression" (Tommy Cadwell in El Capitan, Adam Ondra in Spain, Chris Sharma and his hard projects... I wanted to see more but just I have to wait until the this autumn... nice!

So now we are going to YO Base Camp in Bishop with Andy Puhvel and Lisa Coleman and after some weeks in Sta Cruz CA, that sound really good! ;-)

Have fun!

"De picos pardos" 8b+ in Oliana

2009-06-11T16:34:00.000-07:00

We keep going back to Oliana because the weather isn't so bad.. We have to send our projects before of the summer! And today I finished my project "De picos Pardos" 8b+ (this route is well known as Carles's project too) bolted by Carles Brasco. Nice route dude! And I felt fear because one bolt hanger wasn't in the wall because the strong wind the last night! oh man... finally I kept climbing without looking at the last quickdraw and I sent it! yeah! ;-) Chris also bolted a new route between "Paper mollat" and "Blanquita" maybe a new ninth... so he has project again.. nice! A muerte always!

More Oliana...

2009-06-10T02:38:00.000-07:00

The last days the weather was very good in Oliana.. Now thhe condition is perfect like in winter... it's perfect for redpoints! Although for me I don't know because I fell in the last quickdraw of my project! nooo.. one foot broke! ok the next day I'll kill it ;-) Chris is always motivated and he redpointed for everybody (he's good friend..he he) He doesn't want to leave projects for the next winter and he sent his big proyect "Pachamama" 9a+ hard F.A.! This 50 metres routes was bolted by Chris and It's a really nice and athletic route! nice dude! also he has done the F.A of two more new route in Oliana "" 8c+ bolted by himself and "Blanquita" 8c+ bolted by the master Dani Andrada. Good job Chris! ;-) David Gambus took advantage of the good condition and he sent "Fish eye" espectacular 8c bolted by Chris too. Arriba la casa!

"ILERBLOC 2009" I Open International Bouldering-Lleida

2009-05-17T17:08:00.000-07:00

The last saturday was in Lleida the Ist Open International Bouldering "ILERBLOC 2009" .Thanks to the organizer Victor Fernandez! Dani Andrada, Iker y Eneko Pou, Jordi Salas "Pelon", Pete O'donovan, Chris Sharma, David Gambus, Maria Torres, Citro, Sara Aicart, Edu Marin, Ramonet, Berta Martin and many others participed in this event and It's was really fun! ;-) Nice problems and really fanatic ambient were the principal ingredients of last night... Finally the clasification was like this.

Girls: - 1 Berta Martin and me ;-)

- 3 Sara Aicart

men: -1 Chris Sharma

-2 Dani Andrada

-3 Edu Marin

The competition finished at 4.30 a.m! our favorite speaker Andoni Perez kept everyone motivated till the end! nice dude! The next year more for sure!!

You can know more in DESNIVEL.COM

Come back home! ;-)

2009-04-22T02:59:00.001-07:00

We made it back home and we are recovering our "chill and normal life"...like our friend Corey says: "now we'll need holidays to rest from these holidays" because this last parte of the travel has been a little bit stressful. It's true that Yangshuo is a really beautiful place but It's a very famous place in China for tourism too so if you want to enjoy of silence and peacefulness of the nature it's not a best place... It's China!! ;-) Besides that we have enjoyed high quality climbing and the very good people (american team, fanatic chinese climbers and the spanish team Andrea y Carlos).. We felt at home in the Rock'n Grill hotel and the beers in China Climb really good! Also Mike Call and Boone Speed were with us in this chinese adventure to film and to take really nice photos. You can see it in his website momentumvm.com and Boonespeed.com ;-)

"Lightning" 8b+ and more...

2009-04-16T19:56:00.000-07:00

"Lightning" 8b+.Photos: Mike Call ;-)

Yesterday I redpointed one really nice route in Yangshuo, "Lightning" 8b+! I'm very happy because I was thinking that with this condition it wasn't possible... nice! Also you can see some nice footage on momentumvm.com from Mike Call... thanks dude! Furthermore, Chris bolted a new project in Lei Pi Shan "Angry Chimp" ?? nice work! now he has something to do because his project in White Mountain is totally wet! and Corey has to do his project too! C'mon guys!

Asian Tour: China

2009-04-09T08:01:00.000-07:00

Climbing in Moon Hill. Photo: Mike Call

We went to the famous arch "Moon Hill" the last few days and this place is really beautiful! You can see all green mountains, the villages and hot air baloons... it's a special place. Also you can climb some really nice routes right here.. yeah! I have a proyect! we'll see the next raining days...

Chris has a nice proyect too, the last day he bolted some hard proyects: "Spicy noodle"8c that he did yesterday and "Pump Dumpling" 9a+ hehe nice dude!! Also the last day he did the hardest route here "American Gangster" 8c without the chipped hold that the french climber Mikel Fuselier did, so the route has a new system now and new name too because the locals want to change it and call it: "French Gangster" (I thinks the locals aren't very happy with the chipped hold...)

Asian Tour: Korea

2009-03-31T05:32:00.000-07:00

ok! the last days in Korea were intense but really fun too.. We climbed in one nice spot in the south where we could enjoy ;-) here are some photos from the photographer Lea Kang to remember! Now we are going to China for climbing a muerte! hehe

going to Korea...

2009-03-25T08:03:00.001-07:00

After some nice days in Japan we are going to Korea! and after climbing in China! It was fun doing buldering with Dai and Yuji... and Thanks to Kioshi and Omits for evrything! ;-)

have fun! and climbing a muerte!

Asian Tour: Japan

2009-03-23T09:25:00.001-07:00

We are in Japan! We have visited Tokio the last two days and we have seen the fanatic climbers from here in their fantastic climbing gym! We are accompanied with the famous climber from Japon Yuji Hirayama and Dai Koyamada. Also we are visited the old capital Kamakura, where there are many Buddhist temples. The next two days we are going buldering with Dai and Yuji! nice dude! ;-)

Motivation!

2009-03-17T05:19:00.000-07:00

fotos Brett Lowell

Everything is ready for the travel.

We are going to Asia (Japan, Korea and China) with a EVOLV promotional tour. I'm ready to go because I did my last project "Humildes pa'riba" a incredible 8a+ of 50 mtrs that Chris bolted some days before. Nice work!

Now we have two more days and we'll see if Chris can do his project in Margalef! I hope he'll do it! a muerte! ;-)

Big UP Productions in Catalunya...

2009-03-09T08:26:00.000-07:00

First was the cold, the rain, the wind, after we had some weeks of perfect weather and now it's hot! the spring is coming early...

Our friends from USA, Josh and Brett Lowell and Cooper, are visiting in Catalunya to enjoy this nice sun. They are making a new film that it will be the same or better than the ones before (King Lines, Dosage...). In the photos you can see where we have filmed the last few days: Chris is in his project "First round first minute" 9?? in Laboratory, Margalef and me in "China Crisis" 8b+ FA in Oliana. It'll be a really nice film for sure!! ;-)

If you want to know something more about that you can enter in Bigupproductions.com/blog.

new redpoint...

2009-02-25T14:25:00.000-08:00

the first redpoint in the year! "China Crisis" 8b+ FA in Oliana. This incredible route was bolted by Carlos Logrono "Citro".
Thanks Citro" Really nice route dude! ;-)

2009-02-23T10:56:00.000-08:00

We are really motivated now, the condition is perfect for climbing and the motivation is in the air in Oliana! those days before we have had a lot of falls close to the anchor... the projects are really near but we have to rest some days because the skin is very bad!

Adam Ondra is very motivated in Oliana too with "Papichulo" 9a+, an incredible route bolted and redpointed by Chris the last spring. Let's do it!

Also we can enjoy with another new long route that Chris has bolted in this nice wall, "Humildes pa'rriba" 8a+, 60 mtrs!!

Nice photos from Pete O'donovan.

9a+ FA for Chris Sharma

2009-02-20T12:14:00.000-08:00

The condition for climbing is perfect now! We have been taking advantage of the great weather these days... and today in Margalef Chris did the first ascent of "Demencia Senil" 9a+. One incredible overhang in the Laboratory. Really nice photo from the catalan-english Pete O'donovan.

Nice dude! ;-)

First 8c for the young David Firnenburg

2009-02-03T14:57:00.000-08:00

After many days of intense rain and cold in Catalunya, the weather gave us a break. Today it was a really nice day... sunny, fresh air... and motivation of course!

In Margalef (Cova boix) the young climber David Firnenburg redpointed L'espiedimonis his first 8c with just 13 years old! nice dude! you are really motivated!

Congratulations David!! ;-)

Motivation in Margalef..

2009-01-27T14:26:00.000-08:00

Adam Ondra y Chris in Margalef

Chris bolting his new project in Laboratory

This winter has been really cold. Wind, rain and snow!!

We climbed in Margalef those days before... Chris and Dani Andrada bolted new proyets: "First round first minute" for Chris and "Bumbaye" for Dani, both route with the same start.

Always good vibes and motivation in Catalunya! ;-)

Cover of Escalar...

2009-01-06T11:40:00.000-08:00

In the first Escalar magazine of 2009 you can get to know Maria Torres photography.
Her unmistekable and amazing photography is like her, simple and transparent.

This is her second cover in Escalar and me second cover too! the first one was some years before with a beautifull photo from the photographer Pete O´donovan.

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2009!

2008-12-31T11:49:00.000-08:00

Today is Decembrer 31-2008... the time goes very fast. I wish you good luck for the new year and a lot of redpoints! Don´t forget make a wish... We´ll do all the proyects in 2009!

A muerte! Happyness for all! ;-)

Christmas in Canarias!

2008-12-23T13:31:00.000-08:00

The seriously cold weather is starting in Lleida and we are ready to escape to the South.

Chris and me are going to Gran Canaria to pass Christmas over there, to see my family, friends and go to the beach!

But we have had some nice moments with our friends from here before.

Nice weekend of climbing with my girl friends Helena Lipenska and Andrea Cartas. And Christmas dinner with my family from Lleida: Maria, Cristian, Victor, Annita, Chris, Dani...

Merry Christmas for all! ;-)

And Chris Sharma sent it..

2008-12-17T11:26:00.000-08:00

Today the sun was shining in Siurana, so we were motivated to try some of the spectacular routes that you can find in this paradise of rock.

And Chris sent it..... While warming up he was feeling a little sick and his first try wasn't like other days. he was more tired... maybe soft..

But the people that know him, know that Chris is capable of doing whatever. And thats how it went. In his second try in this day he sent his new proyect in Siurana "Golpe de Estado" ? he is still thinking about the grade..hehe..

Nice Crispi!

new 8c+ for DAVE GRAHAM...

2008-12-16T14:52:00.000-08:00

The weather is getting better...it's possible to see the sun sometimes and like this we are motivated.

Like the american climber Dave Graham who is always motivated and he is always trying and sending hard routes. In this case, in Margalef he has done "Llamps y trons" 8c+.

Nice dude! ;-)

WELCOME to the english version of Daila Ojeda blog

2008-12-15T09:50:00.000-08:00

This week climbing has been a little bit hard with the snow, wind and rain that we are having in Spain but it will be different soon and we will climb a muerte!! ;-)

Later!