domingo, 5 de diciembre de 2010

T1-Full Equip 8c in Oliana!!

A story of love and hate .. hehe… This is how I have decided to define my experience with "Full Equip" 8c, an incredible route in Oliana, equipped by Victor Fernandez.

I liked this line from the first time I tried it, the style of climbing, the kind of holds, and that I was able to work out all the moves quite quicky.

The worst part of it has undoutebly been wear and tear on finger skin: when I first tried it the holds felt great… until I split my finger tip on one of the lower moves, and from then on I had to tape my finger for every attempt — not the best thing for trying hard routes! Instead of crimping the small, sharp holds I tried my best to open-hand them as much as possible, and climbing in this way I finally managed to send it last Thursday!

All in all I’m really happy: I’ve done both my recent projects — Aitzol (8c) at Margalef and now Full Equip at Oliana. Now I just need to stay motivated for the future.. have fun!!

1 comentario:

  1. Hey Daila,

    I was wondering what made you take the decision to go open hand as much as possible?

    As far as I am concerned, I try to never crimp, I like to think it would limit my potential but also because I'm really scared of getting hurt, I guess because I never crimped in the first place... I might be climbing routes that are too hard for my weak pulleys.

    I've been watching Reel Rock 2010 I bought as an HD download from BigUp (thank god for HD Downloads) and I can't help to notice that Chris crimps the right hand before the last move. I've always had the feeling that my next move following a crimp was noticeably harder.

    Congratulation on the route!