A story of love and hate .. hehe… This is how I have decided to define my experience with "Full Equip" 8c, an incredible route in Oliana, equipped by Victor Fernandez.
I liked this line from the first time I tried it, the style of climbing, the kind of holds, and that I was able to work out all the moves quite quicky.
The worst part of it has undoutebly been wear and tear on finger skin: when I first tried it the holds felt great… until I split my finger tip on one of the lower moves, and from then on I had to tape my finger for every attempt — not the best thing for trying hard routes! Instead of crimping the small, sharp holds I tried my best to open-hand them as much as possible, and climbing in this way I finally managed to send it last Thursday!
All in all I’m really happy: I’ve done both my recent projects — Aitzol (8c) at Margalef and now Full Equip at Oliana. Now I just need to stay motivated for the future.. have fun!!
Hey Daila,
ResponderEliminarI was wondering what made you take the decision to go open hand as much as possible?
As far as I am concerned, I try to never crimp, I like to think it would limit my potential but also because I'm really scared of getting hurt, I guess because I never crimped in the first place... I might be climbing routes that are too hard for my weak pulleys.
I've been watching Reel Rock 2010 I bought as an HD download from BigUp (thank god for HD Downloads) and I can't help to notice that Chris crimps the right hand before the last move. I've always had the feeling that my next move following a crimp was noticeably harder.
Congratulation on the route!
David