T1-Full Equip 8c in Oliana!!

A story of love and hate .. hehe… This is how I have decided to define my experience with "Full Equip" 8c, an incredible route in Oliana, equipped by Victor Fernandez.

I liked this line from the first time I tried it, the style of climbing, the kind of holds, and that I was able to work out all the moves quite quicky.

The worst part of it has undoutebly been wear and tear on finger skin: when I first tried it the holds felt great… until I split my finger tip on one of the lower moves, and from then on I had to tape my finger for every attempt — not the best thing for trying hard routes! Instead of crimping the small, sharp holds I tried my best to open-hand them as much as possible, and climbing in this way I finally managed to send it last Thursday!

All in all I’m really happy: I’ve done both my recent projects — Aitzol (8c) at Margalef and now Full Equip at Oliana. Now I just need to stay motivated for the future.. have fun!!

Temps d´aventura tv3 with Chris Sharma

Some weeks ago we were invited to visit the huge Barcelona football stadium ¨Camp Nou¨ with the guys from the Cataluña TV tv3 because they were making a very nice shoot with Chris about climbing for the tv program Temps d'aventura... Why we went to this place for to film a climbing program?! you have to watch this film and you will find the answer! :-) (Saludos a los vampiros! jeje.. we miss you guys!)

Aitzol 8c in Margalef!!

The last week I sent "Aitzol" my second 8c in Margalef!! yupiiii... I'm so psyched!!

Venga! :-)

Cover in the ESCALAR magazine

Beautiful photo of the french Sam Bie in the cover of the last magazine Escalar! Nice! ;-)

And we want to go back to our climbing routine in Spain and to try our new projects there.. but for the moment we are in New Paltz, near the big city of New York, where the last night Chris made slideshow in the climbing shop Rock and Snow, that was cool.. and of course, we are visiting the Lowell family: Kate, Grey, Cedar and Brett.. the landscape are really beautiful here, wood houses and colorful forests...

From Margalef to US

Photo: Victor Montilla

Now we can say ¨hasta la proxima¨ to the summertime and we be psyched for the autumn season, the best one for climbing!

And the autumn arrived and we are leaving to US for 12 days.. First we are going to ¨Noreaster¨ in Rumney for some days. then we´ll go to New York where Chris will do a slideshow and after we will be in Boulder, Colorado.

It´s not a long trip and for sure we wont forget our new proyects in Margalef.. uff so hard!

Also, in the last days we have climbed other routes here. I was happy after climb ¨Hard Crit¨ 8a+ really fanatic route in Margalef. Andrada sent one spectacular 50 meter route ¨Politicamente Corruptos¨ 8c+/9a that he bolted the last weeks and Chris did the same with¨Coma Sanpere¨ 8c+ bolted by Dani too.

Now, we have to wait for the really good conditions and climbing a muerte of course! ;-)

Tres Ponts!!

Nice photos of Pete O'donovan

September is here! ...that means autumn is finally near and that sound really good.

We'll be able to climb in our favorite places very soon like St. linya, Margalef, Oliana..

In the moment we are climbing in another espectacular spot called Tres Ponts and this week I was able to climb an incredible route there, "Aonvolsna" 8b. Nice!

Now we 're talking :-) a muerte!

Norway...

Here some photos from Norway...

Last weekend we participated in Rock Master in Norway and this event wasn't like I expected. It was presented like a climbing meeting and finally it was a real competition.. with insolation zone, judges and we had to climb new granite routes that were totally dirty onsight! it was crazy because almost everybody broke some holds on the routes.. well, it was really fun with my friends from Spain... really really fun.. thanks dudes! ;-)

Venga! Now I want to climb a muerte in our nice rock in Spain! hehe