¨Fish eye¨ in Oliana!!

After two months just climbing in Oliana I have climbed my project ¨Fish eye¨ 8c finally! I´m so happy.. my first 8c! It´s a present from Chris because he bolted this amazing route one year before.. nice dude!

I´m very satisfied because when I tried it first time I thought ¨I couldn´t do this route in my life, too long (50 mtrs!), very physical and with a surprise in the slab final..uff I don´t know man..¨ but well, trying and trying I loved the route and just I was psyched to progress and that was fun! thanks to Chris and my friends of course! :-)

Yesterday it was a special day. When I left my house I thought ¨the las year one day like today (feb 26) I did China Crisis 8b+ in Oliana, maybe I´m lucky this day again.. I don´t know, we´ll see..here¨ and we arrived to Oliana the weather was really perfect, sun and fresh wind but I waited for the fresh shade and venga! climbing a muerte! and it´s was very stressful! oh my god! I have fallen two times before in the slab! And It was very nice when I arrived to the slab and Laurent Triay who was filming the send for WORK LESS CLIMB MORE films (because he is making a new fanatic climbing film) helped me to climb easy and chill… and of course thanks to Chris and the team american-finland (Dave, Jonh, Chad and Nalle) because they were really psyched and shouting encouragement the whole time. Nice dudes!

And now more projects, climbing on sight and I want to stay in shape for climbing a muerte the next month in USA… let´s climb!

Venga!

URGENT! my e-mail address has been stolen!

hello everybody!

Please don't send me e-mails to my address: dailaojeda@yahoo.es bescause somebody has stolen my address account.

And if you received some strange mail from this account it's not me!! for sure!!

Joder! Venga!

Good weather = motivation!

The good weather has arrived and the same time the motivation is here too!

Today maybe it's not the best time for to say that because it's raining right now but the last week and the next few days the sun will shine and it's for that we live here because you can climb with perfect weather on all the incredible walls for the majority of the year.

And for to get psyched we were going to one of our favorite place for climbing, Oliana. This place is wonderful and the lines are five stars of course! and now also Oliana has a new line of 50 meters bolted by Chris the last week... the name is Chaxiraxi and it can be one of the hardest route in the sector... 9b?? We will see that the machine says.. If it's like this Chris has bolted four 9b routes in Catalunya: "Golpe de Estado" 9b in Siurana, "Neanderthal" 9b in Santa Linya, "First round First minute" 9b proyect in Margalef and "Chaxiraxi" 9b proyect in Oliana. And with this line Chris has bolted in Oliana 10 routes. Looks like Chris doesn't want just to send the hard routes, he want to create it too. Good job peque!

And since my project "Digital System" in Santa Linya is wet I already have new hard projects in Oliana (like Fish eye in the Maria Torre´s photo).

And the last week we have had the visit like every winter of our fanatics friends from Germany Marcus Bock and Manu (our particular cookers hehe). They arrived motivated for climbing in Margalef but all routes were wet there and then they went to Oliana and Santa Linya with us and they could find some dry routes with 15 just meters or less :-)

And Congratulation for Iker Pou for his recently rotpunk "Demencia Senil" 9a+. Nice job dude!

and what now?

What happen with the weather now?

The weather is getting crazy in Spain right now. It is raining and snowing for everywhere...

Climbing with cold weather is really hard and climbing with wet rock is a piece of shit.. but climbing with temperatures below zero and totally wet rock at the same time that is the worst of the worst! That means that we have to find the climbing gym keys wherever it is and to start training a little bit because our fitness is going to holidays! uff that sounds hard! It's just motivation!! venga! a muerte! hehe

see you! :-)

Merry Christmas from Canary Island!

Merry Christmas and Happy new year 2010!!

Good energy and many redpoints for everybody!

Climbing a muerte always! :-)

Neanderthal 9b for Chris in Santa Linya!!

Today it was a beautiful sunny day of winter in one of our favorite crag in Catalunya, Santa Linya. It's was really cold too and that means perfect conditions for climbing!

And some days before Chris fell in the last move in his project in Santa Linya and after one rest day he arrived to the anchor to the hardest route in the cave Neanderthal 9b

He climbed really solid and very psyched with everybody cheering down below venga bicho!! nice Chris!

the good thing is Brett Lowell captured everything on tape and you be able to see some nice footage very soon on bigupproductions.com (good job guys!)

And it's was crazy because he was waiting for his other project in Margalef to dry and he went to the cave just for fun and belay me… then he has to go to Margalef and finish his work with First round first minute 9b?? before 2010… that sound really good man!

we'll see next few days!

Winter is here!!

David Gambus in Santa Leña 8c/+

Psyched with Digital System 8c

With my baby Chaxiraxi. Photos Brett Lowell

After some hot months the winter is here finally!

The weather is really cold now and at our house it's snowing early in the morning something we don't see very often here.. that's beautiful... but it's hard to be motivated, I'm from Canary Island! hehe... Regardless of the cold we are psyched in The Santa Linya Cave where we share a good fire with other people from everywhere (Japan, Argentina, England, USA...) it's good thing for practicing my poor english! ay mi madre!

Also I am really motivated with my project (Digital System 8c) and each try I feel better doing the moves.. I hope it won't rain the next weeks.

And the next week I'm going to Canary some days for Christmas I'm psyched to see the family, friends and to be a little in the beach but I'll comeback very soon because this time I don't want to lose the good feeling with the route..

We'll see what happen! :-)