jueves, 11 de junio de 2009

"De picos pardos" in Oliana

We keep going back to Oliana because the weather isn't so bad.. We have to send our projects before of the summer! And today I finished my project "De picos Pardos" 8b/+ (this route is well known as Carles's project too) bolted by Carles Brasco. Nice route dude! And I felt fear because one bolt hanger wasn't in the wall because the strong wind the last night! oh man... finally I kept climbing without looking at the last quickdraw and I sent it! yeah! ;-) Chris also bolted a new route between "Paper mollat" and "Blanquita" maybe a new ninth... so he has project again.. nice! A muerte always! 

miércoles, 10 de junio de 2009

More Oliana...


The last days the weather was very good in
Oliana.. Now thhe condition is perfect like in winter... it's perfect for redpoints! Although for me I don't know because I fell in the last quickdraw of my project! nooo.. one foot broke! ok the next day I'll kill it ;-) Chris is always motivated and he redpointed for everybody (he's good friend..he he) He doesn't want to leave projects for the next winter and he sent his big proyect "Pachamama" 9a+ hard F.A.! This 50 metres routes was bolted by Chris and It's a really nice and athletic route! nice dude! also he has done the F.A of two more new route in Oliana "" 8c+ bolted by himself and "Blanquita" 8c+ bolted by the master Dani Andrada. Good job Chris! ;-) David Gambus took advantage of the good condition and he sent "Fish eye" espectacular 8c bolted by Chris too. Arriba la casa! 

domingo, 17 de mayo de 2009

"ILERBLOC 2009" I Open International Bouldering-Lleida

The last saturday was in Lleida the Ist Open International Bouldering "ILERBLOC 2009" .Thanks to the organizer Victor Fernandez!  Dani Andrada, Iker y Eneko Pou, Jordi Salas "Pelon", Pete O'donovan, Chris Sharma, David Gambus, Maria Torres, Citro, Sara Aicart, Edu Marin, Ramonet, Berta Martin and many others participed in this event and It's was really fun! ;-) Nice problems and really fanatic ambient were the principal ingredients of last night... Finally the clasification was like this.
Girls:  - 1 Berta Martin and me ;-)
          - 3 Sara Aicart

men:    -1 Chris  Sharma
           -2 Dani Andrada 
           -3 Edu Marin

The competition finished at 4.30 a.m! our favorite speaker Andoni Perez kept everyone motivated till the end! nice dude! The next year more for sure!! 
You can know more in DESNIVEL.COM

miércoles, 22 de abril de 2009

Come back home! ;-)

We made it back home and we are recovering our "chill and normal life"...like our friend Corey says: "now we'll need holidays to rest from these holidays" because this last parte of the travel has been a little bit stressful. It's true that Yangshuo is a really beautiful place but It's a very famous place in China for tourism too so if you want to enjoy of silence and peacefulness of the nature it's not a best place... It's China!! ;-) Besides that we have enjoyed high quality climbing and the very good people (american team, fanatic chinese climbers and the spanish team Andrea y Carlos).. We felt at home in the Rock'n Grill hotel and the beers in China Climb really good! Also Mike Call and Boone Speed were with us in this chinese adventure to film and to take really nice photos. You can see it in his website momentumvm.com  and Boonespeed.com ;-)





jueves, 16 de abril de 2009

"Lightning" 8b+ and more...

                  "Lightning" 8b+.Photos: Mike Call ;-)

Yesterday I redpointed one really nice route in Yangshuo, "Lightning" 8b+! I'm very happy because I was thinking that with this condition it wasn't possible... nice! Also you can see some nice footage on momentumvm.com from Mike Call... thanks dude! Furthermore, Chris bolted a new project in Lei Pi Shan "Angry Chimp" ?? nice work! now he has something to do because his project in White Mountain is totally wet! and Corey has to do his project too! C'mon guys!

jueves, 9 de abril de 2009

Asian Tour: China

                 Climbing in Moon Hill. Photo: Mike Call

We went to the famous arch "Moon Hill" the last few days and this place is really beautiful! You can see all green mountains, the villages and hot air baloons... it's a special place. Also you can climb some really nice routes right here.. yeah! I have a proyect! we'll see the next raining days... 
Chris has a nice proyect too, the last day he bolted some hard proyects: "Spicy noodle"8c that he did yesterday and "Pump Dumpling" 9a+ hehe nice dude!! Also the last day he did the hardest route here "American Gangster" 8c without the chipped hold that the french climber Mikel Fuselier did, so the route has a new system now and new name too because the locals want to change it and call it: "French Gangster" (I thinks the locals aren't very happy with the chipped hold...)

martes, 31 de marzo de 2009

Asian Tour: Korea



ok! the last days in Korea were intense but really fun too.. We climbed in one nice spot in the south where we could enjoy ;-) here are some photos from the photographer Lea Kang to remember! Now we are going to China for climbing a muerte! hehe